Located just outside Porta Fiorentina, along the route of the Via Francigena, the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie or della Neve is one of the first sacred buildings encountered upon entering Proceno. Historically linked to pilgrims and Marian devotion, it stands as a symbolic gateway to the town and its religious tradition. Already mentioned in ancient municipal maps, the church shows visible signs of multiple expansions, particularly in its perimeter walls. The most recent dates to the late 15th century, when the current Renaissance-style façade, simple and harmonious, was built. The gabled structure features a small rose window, an elegant portal with an architrave and lunette (once frescoed with a Madonna and Child, now lost), and two stone arches in the shape of a flower. Between the rose window and lunette lies the coat of arms of Proceno, which originally adorned the ancient Palazzo dei Priori and was relocated here in the 16th century after the construction of Palazzo Sforza. The façade is completed by iron-grilled windows, finely crafted, and attributed to the Sienese school from the late 15th century.
Loggia, lost frescoes and restorations
In 1526, a loggia was built in front of the church to offer shelter to pilgrims, farmers, and travelers. The interior was once richly decorated with 16th-century frescoes that are now lost, including a Virgin and Child, God the Father with angels, scenes from the life of Saint John the Baptist, and an image of the Madonna delle Grazie. The terracotta pavement inlaid with 1537 tiles is also no longer visible.
During the restorations of the late 20th century, a fresco from the 15th century emerged in the tympanum, depicting the Virgin enthroned within an oval, attributed to the artist known as “Pastura.”
A famous festival and fair
On August 5th, the day dedicated to the Madonna della Neve , a great celebration was held, sanctioned in 1519 by a "Brief" of Pope Leo X. On that date a fair of goods and livestock was held, which until the mid-nineteenth century was one of the most important in Tuscia.
In 1877, after the law that prohibited burials in churches, the municipal cemetery was built behind the building.
Today, the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie retains a strong symbolic value for the town and for the pilgrims who travel the Francigena.
Where
Corso Regina Margherita, 2, 01020 Proceno VT, Italia
